I’m excited to share some of my favorite tips (AND a video - linked below) for working with zippers and making pouches with you here on the Moda blog today.

Before we start, I want to encourage all of you who may be saying to yourself, “I can’t sew a zipper.” I know some of y’all had a bad experience in a home ec class and I want to reassure you that if you can sew a straight line, you can do this! :)

Ok, let’s chat about the zippers themselves… My favorite type of zipper to use is a nylon zipper - they come in many different colors and lengths and are pretty easy to find. They are also easy to work with and use with zipper tabs (more on that later!).

You may notice that nylon zippers come in two tape widths. Your typical zipper tape width is a “size 3” and then there is also a wider one, which you’ll see as a “size 5” or sometimes called a “purse” or “handbag zipper.” The size number refers to the width of the teeth in millimeters (mm). I usually use a size 3, but will sometimes opt for a size 5 depending on how I am installing it and the use, like if I am attaching to a quilted and bound edge of a bag or pouch.

It’s really important to make sure your machine is set up properly to install a zipper. I sew on a Bernina and this means making sure that I the right plate and foot in place. When I don’t have this right, I will usually break a needle! (Not fun!)

You may want to experiment a little with your machine to find the set up that works best for you. For me, I like to move my needle 3 positions to the left and then I can line up the right edge of my foot with the edge of my fabric and zipper tape when sewing all the layers together.

I am REALLY fond of using zipper tabs as part of my installation process in most of my pouches. One of the main reasons I like these is that it helps me get a nice, neat finish for my corners at the top of the pouch.

There are some styles of pouches where I don’t use zipper tabs - usually box shape type bags or my Triangle Pouch (shown below).

Whenever I use zipper tabs, I start with a 2” wide strip and then fold in half and then fold the raw edges in to the center crease. I tuck the raw edge of the zipper into the fold and top stitch - you can think of this as simply binding the raw edge of the zipper.

I bind both edges after trimming my zipper to width of the top of the pouch MINUS ONE INCH. So if my pouch is 10” wide, I will cut my zipper to 9” wide and then bind the edges.

(Find the tutorial for this cute name pouch using Ruby Star Selvedge Magic letters here.

Check out this video I made with the Moda team for more tips and tricks to making a great finished pouch project.

Feeling inspired? I’ve shared quite a few pouch patterns here in our Pouch Club series if you’re inspired to start sewing. Check out the projects in the series here and find tips for making them.